Extreme Flight 110" Yak54 - GP-123

[Joe Hunt]

Couple things on programming... I could find no way to reverse a servo without also programming its center and end points. It just would not take the programming of reverse only. Also, although using a computer is fun, I believe it was much faster to program without one. Which may be why Hitec has released a new programmer that does not use your PC. It's a self contained unit like the old days. I haven't tried one yet, but I'm betting that it is much better and faster than the PC software/dongle versions.

[Joe Hunt]

Just mounted the motor. I don't have much left to do... which means I could be done in a couple of days or a couple of months. haha

[Joe Hunt]

So, I've been running PSP tank fittings for the last year, but with a Fiji bottle I was going to have most of my fuel behind the CG (in addition to having to rework the tank mounts). On the other hand the DUBRO 32oz tank fits perfectly over the CG. So, I opted for the DUBRO vs building a platform, etc, for the Fiji bottle. I covered the middle of the DUBRO tank with some vinyl to jazz it up a bit.

I've always mounted my motors using a 1/4-20 blindnut, 1/4-20 hex nut, and 1/4-20 locknut, using threadlocker on all of the nuts. I've mounted a lot of motors this way and not one has ever become even slightly loose.

[Joe Hunt]

I glued in some backing for the screws for the throttle servo in its new location I cut in. We all know the plane is great and everything, but I consider making the motorbox the right length for a DA-150 a fail. Means most everyone needs a long spacer and that even the throttle servo factory hole is farther away. Not that most ARFs don't have these type of little hassles. I enjoy the Pilot RC planes that do not have the firewalls glued in. You get to use good glue and also set the motorbox to the length you want it for your engine. But, Pilot RC glues in their hinges and that's one of the things I liked about this EF plane, that it doesn't glue in the hinges. Also, a very minor fail, no wood to support a vent dot... just stringers up front.

[Joe Hunt]

My balljoint is closer to the muffler than I'd like, but I'll keep an eye on it and hopefully it will be alright.

And, my favorite fuel dot. I get these from http://www.aero-works.net/

[Joe Hunt]

[Joe Hunt]

No worries! I spoke too soon on the problem with putting in a vent line, you just remove the ply panel for the canisters so as to access the fuse. Harder than it sounds, but not too bad. haha Still a fail on the motorbox length, though. lol I figured this out when I went to put my batteries in. I'm putting them in the nose after reading this thread because I have two push/pull rudder servos in the tail and a light motor.

First thing I did was make some ply plugs for the lightening holes that would be under my batteries. And, glued them in.

Next thing I did was remove that access panel (took a few minutes too). And? Winning! They used CF stringers up there, nice!

Once I had access to the fuse I realized I could put a vent dot in. I just had to add a small piece of ply between the carbon fiber stringers. That's when I realized I didn't have any Aeroworks vent dots in inventory. Doh! So, I looked around and made do with a DUBRO fitting. haha

Then I looked at how I was going to reattach the access panel. The ply former is doubled up there and had a jog in it. So, I took a shortcut and glued ply to the front of the panel (instead of on the inside of the former like I should have) and figured I could live with it. Fail. haha The cowl ring goes right there. So I had to grind off the wood I had glued onto the panel. I might change this later. haha

Even those two screws I left were in the way and had to come out. Whoops. haha

I used the ol' paper bolted onto the mounts trick to mark the cowl for the muffler exits, and it came out perfect as always.

And, here's where the batteries are going.

[Joe Hunt]